We like fish but wouldn’t say we loved fish. That is until we entered Portugal.

Eating on the coast

Beyond Vasco de Gama, many New World explorers from Portugal were among the first to mesh the cultures of the globe with a vast trading empire spanning from Far East to the Americas. What most of us didn’t learn in 8th grade is that Portugal also has a rather diverse cuisine that has both influenced and been influenced on the world stage.

Belem, Portugal

The result is a varied cuisine with strengths in spirits (read about Port and Ginja), desserts (read about Pastries), and rich stews.

Fava Stew

We particularly liked the Estofado con Habas, a hearty stew with sausage, pork, and fresh Fava beans in Belem. Pork appears often on menus, from simple ploughman’s lunches like Migas to Evora’s Porco a Alentejana — slow-simmered pork with clams.

Pork with Breadcrumbs

However, we found that it was the seafood that won our hearts. As we drove south through five Portuguese states, we realized the kitchen is never far from the sea, and the best dishes illustrate a humble respect the coastal national has for it’s waters.

One of the basics of Portuguese seafood is Bacalhao, a dried codfish preserved with salt. To prepare, the fish is washed to remove salt and then cooked. Bacalhao is a standard nationwide, supposedly used in over 400 recipes with many local specialties.

Codfish in Cream

We tasted it in heavy sauces like Bacalhao con Natas (a baked cod with cream), crispy fritters, and simply baked with spices and tomatoes. Though a Portuguese dish, the codfish itself is actually caught in Norway.

Taking from it’s former colony of Brazil, Portugal also prepares it’s own fishy version of the Feijoada, pairing white beans (as opposed to Brazil’s black beans) with an assortment of seafood.

Seafood Feijoada

We found this stew only in the Algarve, and enjoyed the contrast with the classic Brazilian version.

But for all the stews and complex dishes, Portugal best expresses it’s love of the sea at the grill. Filling most menus you will find Sardines, Mackarel, Roubado, Dourada, Sole, Dory, as well as Cuttlefish, Squid, and Octopus.

Sardines

Piri Piri

Whether listed as Assado (roasted) or Grelhado (grilled), seafood is seasoned only with salt and a pinch of herbs. Fresh, flaky and flavorful, the fish is prepared to order and served whole; with a dash of olive oil and Piri Piri (Portugal’s pepper sauce) it’s ready to eat.

Eating at Vela II

Grilled Cuttlefish

We really hit the jackpot at Vela II in tiny Tavira, where mountains of fresh all-you-can-eat fish appear at your table. You can request any kind of seafood, even whole cuttlefish, snappy and tender when grilled.

Full and happy in Lisbon