For foodies like us, Perú is like Christmas — except mom never made Ceviche for Christmas dinner. The cuisine is exciting and has almost unparalleled variety. We spent one month in Perú and did not come close to experiencing all the culinary delights it has to offer.

At Jaunito in Barranco, Lima

Rocoto Relleno

A close look at their menus shows food ranging from Cuy Chactado (guinea pig pan fried under a flat, heavy stone), Causas, and Butifarras (a sandwich made with thick peruvian ham, onions, lime and the ever-popular aji pepper) to finer fare like Pulpo al Olivo (thinly sliced octopus with a blended tapenade). All of the dishes show an intimacy with spices and seasonings such as mint, cilantro, rocoto peppers, garlic, peanuts and liberal amounts of lime and sweet potato.

Lomo Saltado

Wonton Soup

Evidently, if you mix a massive biodiversity with a large-scale climate diversity, and a good deal of colonialism with a little bit of slave trading, you get a very rich food culture. The chinese have imparted a heavy use of rice, soy and stir-frying such as found in Arroz Chaufa and Lomo Saltado (a stir fry of beef, onions, tomatoes, aji, french fries and rice), a dish who’s comfort-food quality was hard to pass up. The Spanish have brought the Paella’s blend of rice, sauce and fish, and the Africans have influenced dishes like Tacu Tacu (a simple pan-fried dish of rice and beans made into a sort of omelette-shape often topped with meat and fish sauces).

The potato, as well as corn, is native to Perú and over 30 varieties of each are found in the country. A large roasted un-popped corn called Cancha is presented at most seafood restaurants, as a accompaniment to dishes and drinks.

Cancha

Each region is also known for its specialties. In the Amazon jungle area these include Juanes: rice seasoned with palillo, a Peruvian spice akin to turmeric, and chicken wrapped in banana leaves, and Tacacho: a ball of fried banana with butter often served with a cut of pork. The Tacacho’s texture varies between crunchy and soft to compliment the salty meat.

Juanes

Tacacho con Cecina

Our jungle guide did warn us that sometimes the meat is not quite the animal the chef says it is but what you don’t know hopefully won’t kill you.

A Mamey with a beetle

The highlight of the jungle are the fruits, vegetables and plant life that you won’t often find elsewhere. We were fond of the Mamey, a plant similar in appearance to a radish but tasting more like an apple, and shredded hearts of palm that the locals called “Jungle Spaghetti.”

Jungle Spaghetti

In the Andes, the potato is king. Many delicious sauces like Ocopa and a la Huancaina are available to smother tubers in nutty, gooey goodness.

Papas a la Huancaina

Native alpaca and ostrich, along with guinea pig, make menu appearances. Foods are rich, warm and hearty. A favorite of Eva’s was the Aji de Gallina, a chicken stew made with cream, cheese, aji, and peanuts, sometimes served over potatoes.

Aji de Gallina

Pizzas in this area are cooked in large, round wood-fire ovens, just like the ones at ancient monasteries in town.

Cebiche

Without a doubt, if you go to Perú you have to try the Ceviche. This dish is served almost everywhere but the Peruvian suggestion is to eat it early in the day until lunch time. Perhaps this is tradition or when the fish is freshest? What we do know is the Cebiche, as they spell it, is fresh, sharp and tangy, filled with a variety of life from the sea, aji, lime and onions accompanied by sweet potatoes and corn.

There are several variations on the basic ceviche theme: red or white sauces, Taridito without onions and even poultry Ceviche.

Jamon Norte at Jaunito in Barranco, Lima

We had some stand-out dishes from spectacular restaurants as well as local shops. The Jamon Norte sandwich at Juanito Bodega Bar in Lima was simple and stuffed some of the best ham we have ever had. Over and over again, Lima delivered sensational meals.

Anticuchos at El Hornero

Another beautiful lunch with Elena

Steak at El Hornero

The Anticuchos (traditional beef heart skewers) were strong and flavorful without an overpowering iron flavor at El Hornero.

Tacu Tacu con Mariscos

Canta Rana

The Tacu Tacu con Mariscos at Canta Rana was as good as any risotto we have ever had, and included an absurd amount of seafood.

Señor Carbon

Los Perros

Even Cucso, deep in the Andes mountains, gave us high class flavors. An all-you-can eat Churrasco-style extravaganza at Señor Carbon got our heads spinning, while the yucca fries and herbed & spiced burger (check it out here) with Andean and Roqueford cheeses, caramelized onions, bacon, mango chutney and greens at Los Perros felt us planning to return to high altitude just for the food.

LA73 in Lima

At the local market

Anticuchos on the street in Barranco

The innovative and complex Peruvian recipes had us searching out each food recommendation and perusing every menu we encountered. There are not enough meals in the day for a traveler to truly discover Perú. By the end of our tour, we were stuffing food in bags for the airport and promising to come back for cooking classes.

Chupe de Camarones

First on our list when we return will be Chupe de Camarones, a thick seafood stew we were heartily suggested, and another round of Pisco Sours!

A for any foodies who are still hungry: wikipedia serves up a fantastic dossier of the foods of Perú.